Frequently asked questions

Winter protection depends on the type of plant you’re growing. Here’s how to prepare each one for cold conditions:

Strawberries

Strawberries should be protected once plants are fully dormant, typically after several nights of temperatures below freezing. Apply a light, loose mulch (such as clean straw) to insulate the plants and prevent repeated freeze-thaw cycles, which can damage crowns and roots. The goal is not to keep plants warm, but to maintain a consistent cold temperature throughout the winter. In spring, gradually remove the mulch as temperatures stabilize and new growth begins.

Fall-bearing (everbearing) raspberries

No winter protection is needed. Simply mow the canes down to ground level in the fall—new canes will grow and produce fruit the following season.

Summer-bearing raspberries

Winter hardiness starts with good site selection. In colder regions, tying the canes together in the fall helps prevent breakage and damage caused by heavy snow accumulation.

Blueberries

Snow is one of the best natural insulators for blueberries. Choose a site that encourages snow buildup or install snow fencing to retain snow around the plants. You can also push snow toward the plants between rows using a plow—limit this to no more than two passes, as excessive plowing can expose the soil to deeper frost and cause damage.

Most garden centres will provide basic soil testing services. For a more complete analysis, refer to your local fertilizer and pesticide supplier. Example: Federated Coop, Agrocentre, Synagri and William Houde, etc..

If well-drained soil is not available, the most effective solution for any crop is to plant on raised beds or mounds. Mounds should be at least 30 cm (12 in) higher than the space between rows to allow excess water to drain away from the roots. Shape the mound with a gentle, gradual slope, avoiding steep sides that can erode or collapse.

For small-scale plantings, soil structure can also be improved by incorporating coarse sand to increase drainage and reduce compaction.

This issue is commonly caused by an insect that lays its eggs in the stem near the cane tip. You’ll often notice two distinct ring-like marks on the stem just below the wilted section. The larvae tunnel downward inside the cane, feeding on the pith and weakening the stem, which causes the tip to collapse. Heavy infestations can lead to reduced plant vigor and yield.

What to do:

As soon as symptoms appear, cut the affected canes below the two rings and remove them from the planting. Destroy the cut canes (do not compost them) to prevent the insect from completing its life cycle.

Prevention:

At the end of the season, collect and destroy all pruned or fallen canes from the field. Good sanitation is the most effective way to reduce future infestations.

Strawberries

For home gardeners and small growers, apply a complete fertilizer (natural or synthetic) such as 13-13-13 once the first leaves have emerged. Use approximately 10 g per plant, spreading the fertilizer around the base of the plant, not directly on the crown. Water thoroughly after application.

Repeat fertilization twice during the season:

  • At the appearance of the first runners
  • Again three weeks later

Applications should be spaced about three weeks apart.

Raspberries and Blackberries

First year:

In spring, once new canes emerge, fertilize using the same rate and product as for strawberries. Repeat twice, spacing applications three weeks apart.

Second year and beyond:

Apply approximately 25 g per plant when canes begin to emerge, and repeat three weeks later. Spread fertilizer along the edge of the row, not directly against the stems.

Blueberries

Blueberries thrive in low-fertility soils and are sensitive to over-fertilization.

  • Do not fertilize at planting. Apply the first fertilizer two weeks later.
  • For small plantings, use an ammonium sulfate–based fertilizer (e.g. 30-10-10).
  • For larger plantings, apply 25 g of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) in a 60 cm (24 in) diameter around each plant.

In subsequent years, fertilize from late April to early May, repeating every three weeks, but never later than early July—especially when sawdust mulch is used. Gradually increase rates as plants mature, without exceeding 100–125 g per plant per year.

In late summer or fall, potassium and magnesium may be supplemented using sulfate of potash magnesia (SulPoMag) at similar rates.

Cherries

Use the same fertilization rate as raspberries for the first two years. Once established, fertilize once per year in spring, as foliage begins to emerge.

Haskaps

Follow the same fertilization program as for cherries.

Consult our cultivation methods, which explain trimming of the raspberries, blueberries, cherries and haskaps.

Our Nursery does not supply organic plants since it is impossible to meet the criteria of plant certification included in our "Cahier de Charges" for Certified plant production.  Although:

  • they have not been treated 5 weeks before shipment
  • they are free from synthetic fertilizer

All strawberry and raspberry plants produced and delivered from our nursery:

  • have not been produced from genetically modified parent stock
  • have not been produced from sources utilizing sewage sludge
  • have not been irradiated.

Production Lareault Inc. supplies strawberry plants under inspection of a phytosanitary certificate issued by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency that states:

"This is to certify that the plants, plants products or other regulated articles described herein have been inspected and/or tested according to appropriate official procedures and are considered to be free from quarantine pests specified by the importing contracting party and to conform with the current phytosanitary requirements of the importing contracting party, including those from regulated non-quarantine pests. They are deemed to be practically free from other pests." 

This certificate also bears the logo of the NAPPO: North American Plant Protection Organization. We can provide for your files a copy of the certificate upon request.  Certificates are issued on a volume basis of plants and for a definite period of time. Along with our digging season Certificates are re-issued on a regular basis by the CFIA authorities upon inspections at the nurseries.

In general, wood chips, shredded wood, or sawdust are commonly used as mulch along the planting row. Apply a layer approximately 10 cm (4 in) thick over a 1-metre-wide strip. Because these materials naturally decompose over time, it is recommended to reapply mulch annually to maintain effective coverage. When properly applied, this method provides excellent weed control.

For blueberries, avoid using balsam fir bark, as it may carry fungi associated with witches’ broom disease.

Bare-root strawberries

Bare-root strawberry plants are supplied with a crown (collar) diameter of at least 6 mm. Roots typically measure 15–20 cm in length.

Strawberries in mini trays

Mini-tray strawberry plants are grown in 105 cm³ cells and are delivered at a height of approximately 10–15 cm.

Raspberry canes

Raspberries are supplied as bare-root canes, harvested in the fall and kept in cold storage until shipment. Canes are approximately 30 cm tall, with root systems measuring 25–45 cm in length.

Blueberry bushes

Blueberries are supplied in 1-litre pots. Plants typically have stems measuring 25–45 cm in height.

Cherries and haskaps

Cherry and haskap plants are delivered in 0.5-litre pots and generally measure 25–45 cm in height.

Asparagus

Asparagus crowns are one year old, grown in disinfected and irrigated soil. Crowns measure approximately 20–30 cm in diameter and have an average weight of 60–90 g.

How long before I can expect to harvest fruits?

For home gardeners and small growers, sawdust mulch is an effective way to reduce weed pressure in raspberry plantings. Mulch helps suppress weed growth and makes manual weeding easier, as unwanted plants pull out more readily from the loose material.

Weeds that emerge along the edges of the mulch can be managed with spot treatments using herbicides approved for garden use. Take care to avoid any contact with raspberry foliage or canes when applying herbicides.

There are also contact-based alternatives available, such as products containing vinegar or iron, which control weeds on contact without systemic action.

To maintain good weed control, remember to reapply mulch annually, as organic mulches break down over time.

For home gardeners, it’s best to wait until the soil has dried sufficiently before removing straw. Begin monitoring the center (crown) of the plant for early signs of growth—typically a small, pale green leaf emerging from the middle.

Straw can be partially removed once a period of at least two frost-free nights is expected after removal. Gently pull straw away from the plant crowns, but leave straw at the base of the row. This remaining mulch helps suppress weeds and reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases.